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A full-length coat toile in paper, hand-basted on the dress form

The work · Portfolio

Italian Alta Moda moulage

Our draped patternmaking process. Pattern paper is sculpted by hand on the mannequin, in three dimensions, and the pattern is created from that draped form — resolved on the body before a single sample is made. This is the difference between flat patternmaking, drafted at a table, and couture: the difference between an ordinary garment and a luxury one.

Drafted by hand, then digitised for you · your original paper draft can be prepared and shipped to you as an add-on

Draping, pinning and marking a pattern by hand, on the mannequin and at the table — the Italian Alta Moda moulage method
Several full paper patterns laid out along a long metal cutting table, stacked and in progress, a patternmaker working over them
Patterns drafted and cut on the table
A close view of pattern paper draped on the form at the neckline and shoulder, clip-notched around the curved seam and pinned in a radiating fan
Neckline and shoulder, clip-notched and pinned
Hands shaping the paper on the form
A bodice half-draped in pattern paper on the form, one side worked and one side bare, sewing machines and croquis behind
Half-draped on the form, one side worked
Hands shaping pattern paper against the mannequin, fashion croquis on the wall behind
Shaping the paper against the form
A collar draped and pinned in pattern paper on the mannequin, our moulage method
Draping a collar in pattern paper, our moulage method
Pattern paper worked on the form, waistline marked
Pattern paper worked on the form, waistline marked
A coat toile, three views
A coat toile, three views
A rolling cart stacked with folded paper patterns and toiles in the atelier
Folded and filed — the pattern archive
A sculptural paper collar, taking shape
A sculptural paper collar, taking shape
Paper toile, half-draped on the stand
Paper toile, half-draped on the stand
Basting threads on a dark toile back
Basting threads on a dark toile back
Hem finishing, specified to the centimetre
Hem finishing, specified to the centimetre
Collar, pockets and belt in paper
Collar, pockets and belt in paper
The flat pattern, annotated by hand
The flat pattern, annotated by hand
Collar and shoulder, on the form
Collar and shoulder, on the form
A bodice toile in paper
A bodice toile in paper
Cut notches and balance marks
Cut notches and balance marks
Gathered tulle, shaped on the form
A fitted paper sheath toile on the form, side view
A fitted toile, in paper
A finished wool blazer beside its paper pattern piece
The pattern, and the piece it makes
A flat paper pattern covered in hand annotations
The flat pattern, marked by hand
A full paper toile front on the canvas form
Toile front, on the stand
A paper dress pattern on the form, engineering the lace-up side seams
Dress pattern, lace-up side seams engineered
The pattern measured, pinned and marked on the form

From a toile to a technical foundation

This is what you are buying.

The Couture Pattern is this work, engineered to your style and delivered ready for sampling — with us, or with any atelier or factory in the world. The Couture Tech Pack is the blueprint it is drafted from. Ordered per style, directly on the store.

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